Overlaying a space of roughly 1,500 hectares, the terroir of the Bandol appellation covers eight communes in Var (Bandol, Le Beausset, Le Castellet, Los angeles Cadière d’Azur, Saint Cyr-sur-mer, St. Anne of Evenos, Sanary-sur-mer and Ollioules) and a few 50 winemakers. The area covers a herbal amphitheatre of terraces that descend against the Mediterranean Sea within the refuge of the Sainte Baume massif to the north.
Right through my keep at Mas du Brulat, a small luxurious resort within the commune of Le Castellet within the division of Var in Provence, I had the great fortune of visiting one of the crucial many vineyards: the within reach Domaine de l’Olivette, manufacturers of Bandol wines and providers to the resort’s bar and eating place.
Actually, the domaine is likely one of the oldest within the Bandol appellation which used to be created again in 1941. Bandol is most renowned for its pink wines, which might be characterized via the Mourvèdre grape – a grape selection which prospers on this scorching area and offers the wine construction and tannins. Crimson wine makes up nearly all of the appellation’s output and, to be a Bandol pink, there will have to be a minimum of 50% of the Mourvèdre grape within the mix. That is what offers the wine its construction.
At Domaine de l’Olivette, on the other hand, it’s the rosé wines that take centre degree. Taking part in perspectives of each Le Castellet and Los angeles Cadière, the winery right here has been beneath the loving coverage of the similar circle of relatives for 2 centuries, keeping the native and standard traits of this wine, and nowadays generating within the area of 250,000 bottles each and every yr.
On the time of our discuss with, the vines have been having a look a bit naked however simply beginning to come into leaf. The yield on the winery is saved intentionally low at slightly below 40 hectolitres in line with hectare – normally equating to at least one bottle of wine in line with vine. The decrease the yield, the simpler the standard and focus of the manufacturing, so the yield is restricted for this very explanation why and laws are in position to verify this high quality is maintained.
As you way the guts of the domaine, it’s obvious that the circle of relatives even have a love of artwork, with many attention-grabbing items decorating the grounds sooner than you succeed in the principle front.
As soon as within, you might be greeted via wine bottles of quite a lot of sizes, but extra paintings, bottles made into a gentle becoming, a tasting house in a single nook or even the pinnacle of a wild boar displayed in any other.
Of the 250,000 bottles produced in this winery, 75% is a rosé wine that blends Grenache with the previous Mourvèdres, is gentle in color, nearly coral in complexion, with orangey reflections and a delicate mixing of vegetation and pink berries. This refreshing rosé Domaine de l’Olivette has a fruity and titillating style and attracts its complexity from the fragrant subtleties of the Cinsault. This can be a little highly spiced on the finish which is standard of the Mourvèdre.
An extra 20% is pink wine this is 90% Mourvèdre, decided on for its focus and the finesse and richness of its tannins, and the rest five% of the winery’s manufacturing is a white wine with a good looking, faded yellow color and moderately inexperienced reflections.
Additionally on show within the ‘store’ is quite a lot of native produce similar to tapenades, with the similar Domaine de L’Olivette branding. Those will also be bought with bottles of wine in quite a lot of nicely-presented present packing containers.
Around the again of this construction, even though, is the place all of it occurs as soon as the grapes had been hand-picked. In case you get the chance to have a excursion, you’ll want to take them up on it because it’ll provide you with a fascinating perception into the lengths that the circle of relatives pass to in an effort to carry you AOC Bandol wines.
We have been fortunate sufficient to have a personal excursion with proprietor Jean-Luc Dumoutier who defined that to begin with they create out a inexperienced harvest the place they lower some just right grapes, one month sooner than the principle harvest, to depart about part a dozen bunches in line with vine. That is to verify high quality, that means that the goodness is going into few grapes.
Then, following the handbook harvest, there’s a meticulous double sorting to ensure grapes of best high quality. Hand choosing guarantees you get the most productive grapes from the harvest after which apparatus is used as an help to take away stalks, snails and so forth. Nature additionally performs its phase within the procedure in ways in which may not be straight away obtrusive – the mistral winds within the house pressure away the rain and and assist to take away illness.
The harvest begins with the Grenache in August. With the rosé, they’re searching for ripe fruit; with the reds, they’re searching for ripe tannins so want a couple extra weeks. With that comes extra solar – extra solar and sugar method extra alcohol, so the reads are usually one stage extra in alcohol content material, frequently 14-15%.
After sorting, they go via equipment to decrease the temperature. This prevents an excessive amount of oxidation and prevents fermenting taking place too temporarily too early. Equipment then pressurises the grapes however softly so the seeds aren’t overwhelmed as that might give sour style, sooner than going to tanks for vinification.
Two years in the past, important funding noticed a significant modernisation of the cellar with the set up of recent apparatus this is routinely temperature managed. The temperature can get moderately heat however needed to be managed at 18 levels Centigrade for 2 weeks all through fermentation. Carbonic fuel, which will also be moderately unhealthy, additionally needs to be launched. The rosé and white wines are made via the similar procedure, however with the reds this can be a little other.
As an alternative, with the reds they use a gadget to pressurise the grapes – however softly in order that the seeds aren’t overwhelmed as that might give the wine a sour style. Right through the vinification procedure, the entirety then is going into the tank (with the rosé and white, it is only the juice) – this facilitates maceration and provides intensity to the wine. The pink wine then is going into huge barrels which can be greater than 50 years previous (as soon as utilized by the now reduced beer trade within the house), final there for 18 to 24 months, relying at the profile of each and every wine, to permit a delicate ripening of tannins. This is helping to increase reds of personality – an impressive and racy mix of Mourvèdre and Grenache. The barrels have resin within as picket historically had no position within the brewing of beer. The picket is porous to the air, even though, so that you get a micro-oxidisation that makes the tannins softer.
From the purpose of thought, via to planting, rising and harvesting the vines, you’ll be able to simply be having a look at 20 years for the manufacturing of a high quality Bandol pink. For a cuvée speciale, you’re looking at at least 25 years. The domaine is these days promoting their 2014-2015 antique – the tannins are nonetheless there however grow to be softer with age, and it’s this evolution of previous leather-based this is standard of Mourvèdre and what’s so standard of a Bandol pink wine. This may pass neatly with one thing like magret de canard (duck breast) or lamb or a wild boar stew.
The pink is healthier if saved longer while with the 2014 rosé there was extra evolution of the wine – this antique may be very unique and would pass properly with foie gras. The anti-oxidisation qualities of Mourvèdre grape are key, since oxidisation is the enemy in terms of with the ability to stay the wine a very long time. The similar isn’t true of the white which doesn’t comprise the Mourvèdre grape – it’s Claret and Rolle principally.
To be able to be accredited as a Bandol wine, it will have to go on two standards in a blind tasting performed via round seven folks, just like an exam. At first, is it just right sufficient? And secondly, is it standard sufficient?
In Bandol itself, you’ll be able to discuss with Les Vins de Bandol the place you’ll be able to acquire many alternative wines from across the house, obtain recommendation or know about quite a lot of Bandol-related occasions.
You’ll additionally select up details about Bandol Wine Excursions the place you’ll be able to discover, uncover and enjoy the most productive of the Bandol wine domaines. Complete day wine excursions together with a gastronomic lunch on a winery get started from €159 in line with individual while complete day wine excursions with foie gras and a wine picnic get started from €139.
Disclosure: Our commute to the South of France used to be courtesy of Mas du Brulat, a small luxurious resort in Le Castellet commune of Provence – a part of the Olives & Vines logo.